Ialatsara
In Ialatsara, we stayed in wooden cabins on stilts in the middle of a forest.
The rooms were lovely and rustic, complete with much-needed mosquito nets, and showers were in a separate enclosure where we had to wash ourselves using a bucket of water and a cup. I hesitated before splashing cold water down my back but did it anyway and realised it wasn’t too bad after all. Quite refreshing. I had better get used to it in any case as I think most of my showers will be like this for the next few months.
The reserve contains many pine and eucalyptus trees along with the natural vegetation which is sad to see, as much of the area (and in fact the whole country) has suffered from massive deforestation. Pine and eucalyptus were introduced in an attempt to partially resolve the issue as they grow faster than the local Madagascan trees. Nevertheless, at least there was still quite a large area for the local wildlife.
On a night walk, we came across many chameleons...
...as well as some mouse lemurs which were enticed down from the tree tops with freshly mashed banana placed on platforms.
Photo courtesy of Keith
The following day, we went in search of more lemurs and tracked the Milne-Edwards sifakas, which were jumping from tree to tree, eating, and play fighting.
Ring tailed lemurs
At Anja community managed reserve, after a short walk through the forest, we came across many ring tailed lemurs, some with babies on their backs or underneath their stomachs. I think most of us on the trip now know the ‘lemur call’ which is the sound you seem to make when clicking your tongue against your upper palate.
Andringitra
On Day 1 of a 3 day hike in Andringitra National Park, we firstly had to get to the park. The road was really rough so we had to swap our minivan for 4 x 4WDs (one with basket of chickens on the top – dinner…)
The drive took us past two markets. One where a young girl was cutely overdressed for the occasion.
And another where one could buy oversized pills, vials, syringes, multivitamin injection, and other ‘interesting’ medicines.
Upon arrival to the park entrance, we found out that the 16 of us needed a crew of 28 porters, 4 guides and a head chef.
We all reached our campsite at different points in time, and then those who wanted to went for an optional walk around the surrounding area in search of lemurs, though we didn’t manage to spot any.
We filled up our now empty water bottles with boiled water at the campsite, though the water tasted like smoke! And it was warm. Not recommended but better than no water at all.
Day 2 involved a 14km trek past moss-covered trees and mountain rivers,
and included a refreshing dip in a cool waterfall on the way.
Not much sleep was had by all as the wind started howling and tents were flapping all night long. The temperature also dropped and despite wearing everything I had I was chilly.
Day 3 was our hardest day with a 10km return trip to Pic Boby. We were climbing up endless sets of strategically placed rocks and walking along steep slopes, surrounded by dramatic mountains.
The majority of our group reached the top of Pic Boby (2658 metres).
One of our guides, Philibert, took a false step and as he had no tread on the bottom of his shoes, unfortunately managed to sprain his ankle. He called one of the other guides over who proceeded to yank his foot backwards and forwards while Philibert was yelping with pain. Keith then wrapped up his ankle with a bandage and we gave him painkillers and trekking poles so he could hobble down the rest of the mountain. Back at the camp, Philibert put his foot in cold water to help with any swelling and then Keith gave him an ankle brace.
Nonetheless there was still another 6kms for us to reach our next campsite (and then another hour and a half the next day).
On the walk to our campsite, a small chameleon was getting blown around by gusts of wind, and had trouble moving from one branch to another.
The wind proved to be too strong for our dining tent, which got blown away and ripped before it could get retrieved. All subsequent meals were on a ground sheet only.
We even had a party on the ground sheet as it was our last night. The party involved flavoured rum (lychee/pineapple/orange) and real Malagasy rum. The flavoured rum was meant for the women but the men ended up having their fair share too. It looked like a ‘chick drink’ but was really strong. The real rum was even stronger at 40% and had a tasty vanilla flavour. After a 3 course meal, we were treated with Malagasy dancing around the fire, and were asked to do some kind of performance in return. Nick suggested the hokey pokey, which we did a bad job of, and then Stuart followed it up with Silent Night and I threw in Rudolf whilst we were on the Christmas bandwagon – it is nearly Christmas after all… We later found out from our guide, Hery, that we were the worst performers out of all the previous groups (though he said it in the nicest way possible!) There were lots of Irish on the last trip and they had apparently put on an amazing show.
Day 4 – after breakfast,
we went on a short walk to a sacred waterfall and then walked out of the park.
On the way back to Ambalavao, the zebu market had recently finished so many zebus were being herded or transported on trucks all the way home.
and even more pleased to take a much-needed shower, though we also experienced a blackout for several hours, and ate by candlelight.
Fellow travellers
I have to preface this by saying 13 out of the 16 in our group are English, one is Danish, and there are just the two of us Aussies. Everyone has laughed at the fact that I’m about to spend the only day I’ll have in London in Luton. But now I am even more determined to check out all the sights of Luton as I don’t want to disappoint… (yes Helen & everyone in the Marketing team, that is particularly you lot!)
Everyone seems to be a hardcore Explore traveller, with most having gone on over 10 trips each and having matchy matchy Explore duffle bags. This is my first trip with Explore. And I am the baby on the trip!
This is our gang:
Stuart – likes anything old, particularly transport which is broad enough to include planes, trains, automobiles, dhows, bridges, punts, etc. Fittingly, has an old Pentax film SLR. Very fit and did fell running in the north of England for many years.
Roger – mostly the first to arrive, but often the last. On hikes, he’d mostly lead the way (in front of the guides even) but then one morning we nearly left him behind as he hadn’t gotten on the bus in time. Likes to wear his hemp t-shirt and likes blending in with the locals by wearing Malagasy necklaces and straw hats. Better looking when shaven (according to Teresa).
(Little Tony) – recently retired and has been to over 100 countries. Doesn’t like fruit juice which is all the better for me as he tends to give them to me. Modest, hardworking and caring (according to Teresa).
(Big Tony) – a runner who recently did his first half marathon. Very tall (hence his label when compared with Little Tony) and proud of his Liverpudlian heritage.
Merete – Danish programmer with a good voice and acceptable English (according to Susan). Recently ill yet still managed the three day hike.
Rob – has been the most ill out of all of us and gathered quite an audience when collapsing in a local village on the first day of our Andringitra hike.
Hazel – dedicated, caring wife of Rob, who stuck by his side during his illness. The two of them have a pill for everything and take bubble wrap in their backpacks which they whip out to sit on during hikes.
Nick – ex-Army Brigadier who has served in Oman and Belize amongst many other countries, and knows how to tie a decent Omani shimagh (scarf-like headwear). Once didn’t shower for 2 months which made us feel much better about not showering for 3 days. Bitten by a vicious Bushmaster snake on the middle of his leg in Belize, it doesn’t stop him from being one of the first up the top of the mountains on our hikes.
Teresa – well-dressed faithful ‘camp follower’ (according to Susan and Jill) (i.e. wife of Nick) who has lived all over the world, but totally happy not having to move again – camp following is so last century. Prefers flat walking.
Jill – excellent teacher and is the only person to ensure the whole group hasn’t lost anyone. A young grandmother that parties hard and can survive on less than 2 hours sleep for several nights in a row. Has a penchant for orange flavoured rum which helps her to lose her inhibitions and dance in front of at least 30 people (though she roped Teresa into it too).
Susan – travels lightly with only hand luggage on every trip. She has three t-shirts and washes one every night, which is more than what I wore on our three nights of camping in Andringitra. Always leading the pack on hikes, she is very fit and adventurous. Also very perceptive.
Mike – sits quietly under his wide-brimmed hat, and is very impressed with the quality of Malagasy rum – the vanilla one was the best flavoured rum he has ever tasted. Blending in with the environment by slowly turning red (as per the colour of some of the soil). Guaranteed to be found in shady areas.
Clive – always last as he never packs his bags on time. Likes World Music Festivals. Full of interesting ideas and willing to be the first man to get pregnant or will settle for discovering a new species of lemur or being the first to make a bionic chameleon eye. A nutty professor (according to Jill) and an eye for the ladies (according to the ladies!)
Robert – computer whiz and can repair iPods on demand. Very chatty about any subject you could imagine (including Bollywood sci-fi movies) and has a voice that can carry a long way. Has a funny walk (according to Marete). Always playing space invaders in his head (according to Clive). Looking forward to going back to work as he has an exciting project to work on – converting Java and C++ to work in Java Script using the Google Web Toolkit – cool. Hates paperwork and approvals. Likes hacking.
Keith – as per previous description from Thanda volunteering. But I can add that he hasn’t broken a camera for three weeks now (though his flash played up for a while!) Insists he takes better photos than me and I hear he wonders how many zebus I would be worth (although sadly for him, probably not many at this age!)
Lisa – please feel free to add your comments here! (Particularly any of those whom I’ve written descriptions of above!)
And we can’t forget our patient tour leader, Hery, who will resolve any issue within a flash, cater to strange tourist requests (e.g. can I feel a zebu’s hump? – story to come soon), and is more concerned about food delivery than an overbooked plane flight (story also to come soon)!
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