The drive from Debark to Gondar was much quicker than expected and
it was all on tarred road. We left Andy and thanked him for being such a great
driver and getting us through the Axum to Debark section alive!
We were surprised to find our truck parked beside such a fancy
hotel – the Florida International Hotel, as normally our budget wouldn’t
stretch that far. As it turns out, it didn’t – we could camp on a gravel
section out the back or upgrade at our own cost but everyone chose to upgrade
as it was only 150 birr per night (under $10) – a special rate just for us. The
room was incredible – power, hot water, a fridge, a TV and free wifi (all
intermittent pending power cuts) – but we were thrilled to be staying in such a
nice place. We even managed to watch the opening ceremony of the Olympics! Talk
about good timing.
The next day, Shaun, Karen, Dom and I took a minivan for 3 birr (less
than 20 cents) to the town centre. We got a guide – Abebe – who was extremely
knowledgeable. Our first stop was the Atse Fasil Compound (Royal Enclosure)
with its numerous castles.
We then took a bajaj (like a tuk-tuk, complete with pet monkey)
to
the 400 year old Debre Berhan Selassie Church, which has paintings all over the
walls and roof. 7 archangels are painted on each beam row in reverse to each
other representing the omnipresence of God.
Next was Fasilada’s bath, which is more like a huge pool with a
castle in the middle. It used to be the King’s second residence. Every year on
the 19th January during Epiphany it still gets used, celebrating the
baptism of Jesus Christ. The nearby Keha river feeds into it and once they’ve
used the water, they drain it out again back into the river. It contains 1500m3
of water when filled and is 2 metres deep. The priest blesses the water
and then everyone can swim in it once it’s blessed. Around the sides are
entrances entwined with old tree roots that look remarkably like Ta Prohm
in Cambodia.
That night, Shaun, Karen, Josh and I squeezed into the back of a
bajaj and drove back into town as we’d organised to meet Abebe in a tej /
azmari bar.
That’s right – this time we had an interpreter! We got there way
too early so we were one of only two tables and hence got a lot of attention. There
was lots of dancing, plastering of money on the dancer’s forehead and general teasing.
Shaun’s beard was again the centre of attention as was our nationalities. I
still believe a lot gets lost in translation though and you still get the
impression everyone is laughing at you, not with you!
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