Thursday, 12 July 2012

The Pearl of Africa – Uganda

Whilst Uganda can definitely live up to its name, the ‘Pearl of Africa’, unfortunately we didn’t get off to a good start there.
Whilst staying at the Little Ritz in Kabale, (where you apparently get electric shocks whilst taking a shower which I didn’t think worth the risk) three of our group had their bags and other valuable items stolen from their tents. Two of the tents the robber/s simply unzipped and one was slashed, all without waking anyone up. Fortunately though none of them lost their passports, and no-one got hurt which is the main thing. Lesson learnt – don’t keep any valuables (or anything you don’t want to lose) in your tent.

From that point though, there was only one way to go. Up. And quite literally too – we headed North and crossed the Equator.

In Kampala, a few of us had a day out in town shopping, getting beauty treatments and eating good food.
I had my eyelashes tinted and a pedicure, and before I knew it the beautician had grabbed my flip-flops, took them outside and scrubbed them clean too! How embarrassing! Getting back to our campsite was an adventure in itself as Emma and I rode on the back of a motorbike together. I was behind the driver and she was behind me. We had no helmets and no padding and just bumped along over the huge potholes and up rocky dirt roads, laughing hysterically. Freaky but fun.
That night we ate at an Indian restaurant called Haandi, supposedly the 11th best restaurant in Kampala. You could see the chefs creating their magic in the kitchen which tasted incredible too – from the chilli paneer entrée (the chef’s special) to the mixed veg korma to the extra cheesy naan. YUM!
In Jinja, a group of us went whitewater rafting. They’ve dammed the Bugugali Falls since I did it in July 2009, but it was still a great day out – you just start further downstream.
Our group consisted of Garrett, Andrea, Dom, a lovely Irish girl called Sinead, myself and two instructors. Overall we capsized three out of eight times but I think my scariest moment was in the training. Alex, our guide, told us to make sure we grabbed onto the rope on the side when we were in the water simulating what would happen if we capsized and he needed to flip the boat back up. I didn’t hear him (or more likely didn’t listen properly!) so under the boat I went. I panicked a little as there were no air pockets on the underside and my very buoyant life vest made it quite tricky to manoeuvre under it until I popped out on one side (the opposite one to everyone else…oops!)

Our first rapid was a Grade 5 and we went over the first part successfully but then got stuck on a massive rock. All of us moved to the front and then the back and vice versa as instructed until we managed to dislodge ourselves and then went over the large waterfall drop which was a total rush – we made it – woo hoo! This rapid is the only one of the eight for the day that the riverboarders can’t do as it’s too dangerous. Lucky we didn’t capsize then!

Our second rapid was only a Grade 4 but this time we capsized and got sucked around and thrown about like a washing machine.

Another rapid contained a Grade 6 so we had to get out of the rafts and rejoin the rapid a little further on where it was only a Grade 5.

There were long stretches of mirror-like water and we paddled until our arms hurt and then rested.

At one point we noticed tonnes of bats flying in formation like in Mulu National Park, Borneo (though not nearly as many). The bats were chattering away and everyone was nervous about having droppings land on them but we only had one land on our boat. We had some juicy fresh pineapple from the supply boat moments before so luckily we ate before reaching them.


The clouds got darker and darker until it started raining, thundering and lightning. We capsized on another rapid and then on the last one I saw our guide simply dive out of the raft. Clearly he wanted us to capsize just for fun. We had made the first part of the rapid safely, but then we were smashed by a huge wave. I thought I could hold on and stay in the raft but couldn’t and got knocked out. I was sucked under and swooshed around again like a washing machine on overdrive but I was surprisingly calm, trying to hold onto my paddle and thinking that I had enough air to last me for a while. When I popped up, I gulped a fresh breath of air and then got smashed by another large wave and then again and again until I finally got spat out of the rapids. When all of us finally re-joined the raft, we were surprised to see Sinead on there – she was the only one who managed to stay on the raft and even she didn’t know how it happened!

Towards the end, I started getting really cold and my teeth began chattering out of control. But soon enough we got to our exit point and then had a delicious hot meal waiting for us.

Aside from the rafting, we visited Jinja which was great for shopping and had this funny sign.
Right outside our gorgeous campsite,
we had an incredible fish curry near this building…!,

And at the campsite next door, there was a rope swing off into the lake which we made good use of.
We also prepared a local meal with the help of a local lady, Fati’a. Dinner was matoke (mashed plantain steamed in banana leaves), sweet potato also steamed in banana leaves, meat, and groundnut sauce with rice – delicious.

Uganda may have started out badly but it definitely ended on a high note.

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