Thursday 17 May 2012

Africa on show in Chobe, Botswana

We were only in Chobe National Park for one day but that day, Africa was definitely on show for us.
On the afternoon we arrived, we went for a river cruise
where we saw several water monitor lizards in trees
and one couple courting on the ground,
white-faced bee-eaters,
crocs,

buffalo walking by the river’s edge,
eles drinking,




hippos snorting water out of their nose and yawning,


birds in flight,

and an incredible sunset.

But the morning game drive the following morning
was perhaps one of the best I’ve ever had (or can remember!) Our guide found some lion tracks and followed them to where they disappeared into the tall grass. We could hear the lions in the bush and soon found out there were actually two groups of them ‘humpfing’, trying to locate each other. Initially, they were very well-camouflaged but after a few minutes they emerged from the bushes and came towards the road.


Many 4x4s had since joined the scene and there was a flurry of activity. All vehicles were madly reversing backwards and speeding forwards as quickly as they could, trying to follow the action. It made for a bumpy yet thrilling ride, and we were in the front row seats of the action. A honey badger darted out of the dense bush, having been flushed out and playfully attacked by one of the juveniles.

Our guide explained the juvenile was simply honing his hunting skills and honey badgers are apparently not their favourite tasting animal in any case. I later read honey badgers are brave little animals and won’t hesitate to take on even an elephant when in danger! (from the Field Guide to the Larger Mammals of Africa by Chris and Tilde Stuart). Luckily the juvenile gave up the game before the honey badger had the chance to turn on him and instead he went back to play fighting with the other juveniles.


Sadly we had to leave the lions in order to see other animals. But Chobe did not disappoint. Soon enough, we came across banded mongoose scuffling in the dirt and jumping mid-air,


tree squirrels,


Chacma baboons,

buffalo,

clouds of dragonflies that filled the air,
and…more lions!

News travel fast along the bush telegraph (even without radios) and our guide was alerted to a lion kill on the river’s edge which we then raced to. The pride killed the buffalo the night before and we could tell that the lioness had already had her fill by the blood-stained saliva that was hanging from her bottom lip. Now the juveniles were tugging at the tough hide of the beast, tearing off bits of its flesh and one was burying its head into the stomach looking for some tasty entrails. Both of their chins were covered in blood and you could hear the crunching of the bones and smell the stench of rotting flesh. Occasionally you’d catch a glimpse of their sharp teeth or tongue whilst they licked their lips.


Again, we reluctantly left the lions but even as we were trying to leave the park, animals just seemed to keep presenting themselves to us, such as a committee of white-backed vultures picking the remaining flesh off the bones of an impala kill and a herd of elephant that came within metres of our vehicle and flapped their ears at us (and even though it wasn’t as ‘hairy’ as our two elephant experiences at Thanda, I was still petrified).

Best US$33 I think I have ever spent.

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